Husqvarna CR 400 MG 2695 almost there.

Restored seat and new aluminium front fender mounted. This bike is also ready for start now, hopefully it will behave just as good as the other one. Also the front tyre is replaced, the original Trelleborg T 544 was cool, but looked a bit to worn so a replaced it with another newer Trelleborg front sneaker.

A pleasant problem, I am almost out of space for my Huskys...

I will get some decent photos of this bike with a proper camera when I take it outdoors for a test ride.

Seat restoration

Seatbase back from zink plating.

Parts ready for assembly, original foam will be reused

Glue on foam and baseplate.

Foam and base bonded together.

Fitting of seatcover

Finished seat, looks a lot better than before.

The Husky lifeblood.

Filled both engines with oil today, hopfully there wont be any big puddles of oil on the floor tomorrow...

Motuls finest transmission oil, for wet clutches.

The day of first startup is getting closer.

Seats

This seat had a bad cover so I purchased a new one from VRM.

Seat foam still in good condition. Seat base was quite ugly so it has been blasted and replated.

This was not an easy task, i think this cover almost was too small.

Almost finished.

For my other bike the original seat is in quite good condition so I just cleaned it.

This logo belongs on a later model Husky.

No shortage of glue.

The look.

I am trying to decide on what look I want for my racer.

Works aluminium tank, light and slim. I will probably paint it later on.

Mikuni fuel tank vent hose from http://www.husqvarna-parts.com/ .

Original 1970 tank. Have some small dents and scuffs but is never repainted and still has all original decals.

NOS desert master tank with all new paint and decals.

Air Cleaner

This is the air cleaner for the 1969 model small Bing carburetor.

This is the original style paper filter, on the bike I intened to use I will fit a foam filter.

Bing side float carburetor, fitted to the 1969 model CR 400 and some early 1970 bikes.

Behold the 1970 and later Bing carburetor.

Carb fitted

Air cleaner with hardware and foam filter with cage.

Air cleaner assembled

Air cleaner monted. Also shown in this picture rear inner fender from John at http://www.vintagehusky.com/  always super quality.



3,2,1 Ignition

NOS Femsa ingition purchased, I could have gone with a modern digital ingintion but I kinda like this old school ingition, so far...

The new flywheel is lapped in.

No need to overdo it, just get a smooth surface all around.

Now mount everything up and set the breaker gap. According to the manual it should be 0,40-0,45mm but according to people that raced theese bikes back in the day 0,30-0,35mm is a better choice. I set the gap to 0,35mm

Set piston at TDC

Line up degree wheel, I used a steel wire as pointer.

Back the engine 22 degrees. This equals 3,5mm on the indicator clock. At this point the breakers should just start to open, either use an ohm-meter or do as i did and use the thin plastic foil from a pack of cigarettes inserted between the breakers and feel when they start to open. To adjust the point of opening you turn the ingition plate back or forward, patience is a must.

When the timing is right I mark the location with a punch and use some medium strong loctite on the screws.

Finally the flywheel is tighted to 60Nm.



Engine rebuild part 3 (Top end MG 3056)

Parts ready for assembly. New piston, needle bearing, spacers and gaskets.

Original bore 81,5mm

Cylinder head in great condition.

Nos piston.

Sealing surface lapped in.

Max allowed piston ring end gap is 0,8mm.

End gap measured 0,5mm.

Piston to cylinder clearence is 0,10mm.

Piston and cylinder installed.

Just enough clearence to install cylinder with the engine in the frame.

The bike is taking form.

Cylinder head bolts tightened to 35 Nm.